Showing posts with label salmon fishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label salmon fishing. Show all posts

Wednesday, 19 October 2016

Salmon fishing season 2016.



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Vasil Bykau

                       Dear fishermen! 

Season salmon fishing is finished in 2016. We finally have the time to publish the results, summarize and draw conclusions. Season was a difficult, but very interesting. In the coming days I will try to tell all and show. Good luck!

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Sunday, 17 January 2016

What you need to understand before you cast the fly .


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Vasil Bykau



Earlier I already did  attempts to organize mistakes of anglers that  threw me in the eye during the 10-15 years of my work on the rivers of the Kola Peninsula. Unfortunately we can not always be appropriate to engage in a radical therapy or even surgery in the treatment or correction of mistakes and tactically wrong decisions when fishing for salmon. It happens quite difficult to explicitly state the need for change the  stereotypes of fishing. It is easier to help the angler, who has not yet sustainable habits and views on how to be and how to fish salmon. Most of this lability depends on the success of fishing.


So I think it is very useful short but informative article by Paddy McDonnell   about the tactics of  salmon fishing.

 You can click on the link and see the original or read it here.
Or you can look at the forum 




Dumb Distance - or Casting without Thinking

Paddy McDonnell

When we first start we are keen to cast as far and as well as possible.  For most men the emphasis is on the
 far before the well.  The problem is that we are so focused on the casting that we forget that its purpose is to put the fly in front of the salmon, at the right depth and moving realistically.  There's a full explanation in the Fast Food and Broad Beans post, but to recap briefly, realistic means;
·              In the right direction - generally obliquely across the flow, with the fly facing somewhere in the range 10 - 70 degrees to the current.  Salmon are less likely to be stimulated by objects coming straight at them or heading directly away.
·              At a sensible speed - the things the salmon's brain recognises as food - nymphs, flies on the surface and small fish - do not travel at warp speed.
But if we cast without thinking, then realism goes out the window and our chances of catching a fish head the same way.  Let's look at a practical example of this sin.
Salmon+-+Sin+1B.jpg (823×522)

This is the House Pool at Tomatin at +12" on a perfect day in mid-September.  There are plenty of fish in the river and at this level they run freely (indeed they were when this photo was taken - we caught nearly 30 that week).  They enter through rough fast water at the far left.  Just out of shot to the right is shallow water that will cause them to check, pause and think, which is just what you want - nice alert fish in short halt lies.  You're fishing from the bank in a grass meadow.  Your natural urge is to fish all the water in front of you: after all, covering more water creates more chances, doesn't it?  So off you go, determined to reach 30 yards and more, as marked by the red line.


Then what happens?  You put out a lovely cast to A and feel really pleased with yourself.  Oh dear!  The line swings round nicely until it checks in the dead water around the big rock in the middle.  The nearer half of your line carries on downstream.  Your fly (1) now starts to accelerate upstream, wasting the far 10 yards of the cast completely.  You put in an upstream mend to compensate, but as the fly passes below the rock it starts to accelerate downstream (2), wasting the middle 10 yards.  By the time it's sorted itself out and you've regained control, you're almost at the dangle.  Out of a 30 yard cast you've had no more than 6-8 yards of effective fly movement.


Let's start again.  Look at the surface of the water.  You will see more movement and standing waves suggesting lies this side of the rock than beyond.  Indeed, the majority of the salmon are right in front of you: I've marked 2 good lies in yellow.  A series of 12-15 yard casts will cover over 60% of the fish in this picture, with your fly under control and working effectively throughout.  Mathematically that gives you 8 times greater chance of catching a fish than casting 30 yards.

The bottom line is that the biggest fish taken in this pool in recent years was lying about 6-8 yards out, so please engage brain and read the water before casting!

Far Bank Fixation - or Standing on Fish

As novices our attention is magnetically drawn to the far bank.  The water there unfailingly looks darker, deeper and more promising.  If the far bank is lined with interesting rocks and features, the attraction grows even stronger.  For men, the fact that it's a long way away makes it almost irresistible: why commit just one sin when you can do two?  Or even more?  So off we go, happy sinners, casting to our maximum and beyond, tempted to wade ever deeper to reach the salmon nirvana under the far bank.  But despite our best efforts and the expenditure of enough testosterone to make every hen fish in the river have a hot flush, we don't get so much as a take.  Our failures spur us on to even greater efforts: if we try harder, put on a stranger fly and cast more often, we shall surely succeed. 
Sadly, we don't.  Why not?


Here's a good example of a magnetic far bank, the highly productive Garden Pool at Tomatin House.  The main flow runs down the far bank for most of its length, past an array of interesting boulders until it reaches the shade of the wood on the left.  The water under the far bank is deeper, darker and far more attractive than the shallower clearer foreground.  The middle is just plain boring.  For years I assiduously cast my fly to land as close as possible to the attractions on the far side, whilst wading down a line 1/4 to 1/3 of the way across.


Trying too hard

In his long-running and outstanding Spey casting DVD, Michael Evans uses a phrase  -
 "if you're working hard, you're working too hard".  Simon Gawesworth calls it 'bashing'.  If things aren't going right we tend to apply more effort and energy in the sincere belief that if we work harder, they'll come right in the end.  I suppose it's a a man thing and the product of testosterone and our Anglo-Saxon work ethic: these are good things in many areas, but in salmon fishing excess effort and aggression usually leads to things getting worse, not better.  The salmon are unimpressed by our exertions and cannot be beaten into submission.  They take when they feel like it, not when we've earned it.

Please don't confuse effort and persistence.  We need persistence to overcome the inevitable disappointments and frustrations of salmon fishing.  It took me 4 season to catch my first Scottish fish - small, stale and weedy in the darkness of the last evening of the week in the 4th year.  There were many lonely times when I felt pretty despairing about the whole thing: when contemplating the results of yet another dire cast; when trudging back to the lodge empty handed; when celebrating my friends' successes; and when paying the bills (and justifying them).  But persistence is the foundation of experience, and if nothing else, in those early years I learned that muscular effort was a very poor substitute for sound technique and calm thought.  Low morale is bad enough, but it sinks further and faster when combined with physical exhaustion, aches and pains.  The purpose of this post is to help you avoid that condition.
Casting

This article is not a casting tutorial: the written word is no substitute for properly qualified practical instruction on a river.  I took lessons when I started and I still take them today in order to iron out bad habits and to improve.  However, it's in casting that trying too hard is immediately apparent, happens most often and generates the most frustration.  When casts persistently go wrong, your line is telling you to seek help and coaching.   When they go right it adds huge pleasure to your fishing.


Does your cast look something like this?  The mid-section hits the water too soon; the end-section runs out of steam; and the tip collapses in a heap.  I still do these, and it's usually as a result of trying too hard and applying undue physical effort.  Unfortunately our immediate reaction is to try even harder and to apply more power to the forward cast, which makes things even worse.  Before we do, let's stop for a moment's thought.  Did we feel resistance in the forward stroke or did it feel a bit like punching air with an audible swish as the rod went forward?

If you felt proper resistance, then you're not far from success, but you must take the excess muscle out of the business.  You tried too hard and carried on applying power until the direction of movement of your rod tip was downwards rather than forwards.  Try the following simple trick, and you may be surprised by the results.  With your upper hand, hold the cork between forefinger and thumb only (if your rod is 15' I'll allow an extra finger).  Now you can't welly it.  Relax, look up and try a couple of casts.  Behold, you'll get 80+% of your maximum range, nice and straight, because the rod has done the work, just as it ought. (With grateful thanks and acknowledgement to Jim Curry who showed me this trick in last year's brush-up session).

If you were punching air, then the rods just wasn't loaded by the weight and resistance of the line.  It's most likely that you were putting too much effort into the back cast and swing, which mucks up the formation of a good D-loop and leads you to break the 180 degree rule.

 Viewed from above it probably looked something like this.  The main weight of the line is not aligned with the direction of the cast: most of it is offset by 45 degrees to the right.  As a result the energy you apply doesn't load the rod: indeed, half of your effort is wasted as it always will be when the line rod and cast are misaligned.  When you start the forward cast the line won't follow the movement of the rod tip towards the target.

By putting too much effort into the first stage of the back cast you throw the line upstream, leaving only about 10% to form the D-loop behind you.  This often happens if the fly is sunk and/or you are using a sink tip.  You give a good heave to get it out and you just keep on heaving.  You're in such a hurry that you cut the corner between back and forward movements, rather the correct circular track to bring the D-loop behind you.  Don't try so hard: just do a nice easy downstream roll cast to bring everything up to the surface and break the water's hold on the line.  Then you can make a nice smooth swing to create a well aligned D-loop.


What you're looking for is more like this.  You can see that the critical heavy section of the line is almost straight behind the cast direction, i.e. at 180 degrees.  All of the forward motion you put into the rod transfers directly to the line.  The job of the lighter bit out to the right is to stick lightly to the water when you start the forward cast, thus creating the tension that loads the rod and bends it to work like a spring.  When you stop your right hand, the rod carries on straightening, throwing the weight of the line straight ahead.

The whole thing of not trying too hard becomes even more important if you are using a modern short-headed line or a shooting head.  Too much muscle or hurry and it flies all over the place - everywhere except into your D-loop.  Just slow down, relax and look up.

Why do I say 'look up'?  When we're trying too hard we tend to lean forward, tense the muscles and look down at the water surface.  This will always make us follow through beyond the stop point by which stage our upper/right hand is following an increasingly steep downwards curve.  Try the forward cast motion using just your right hand, without a rod, and watch the track that it naturally follows past your ear.  Look down and repeat; and then up and repeat.  Any downward motion of the top hand in the forward cast will make the near end of the line hits the water first.  Just like shooting the shot/line goes where we're looking, so if we raise our line of sight our shoulders are further back, and we'll find it easier to hold the stop on the forward cast and project the line in the desired upward trajectory.  This gives it the time in the air to turn over to its full length and straighten before it reaches the water.

Above all, remind yourself that the line you're trying to throw only weighs a couple of ounces, so only apply forces that are proportional to that load, and let the rod do the work. It's simple: your forward cast bends the rod by accelerating the mass of the line; you stop; and then the rod throws the line (not you!).

If you're getting really frustrated and explosive, take a break: chocolate's wonderfully soothing; avoid coffee (you get even more twitchy); and remember that more than 2 units of booze will start to degrade your timing (or in my case, puts me to sleep).

Contemplation and reflect - antidotes to excess force

Salmon fishing is a rare and often expensive privilege.  As a result we want to have a fly in the water every minute of the day.  However, it's difficult to combine focusing on improving your casting with fishing well.  Instead there is huge value in going off to a quiet stretch, early or late, where no one's watching.  You're not there to fish, but to explore and learn how you, your rod and your line interact with each other.  It's the same lonely solace that golfers endure to get better, but you must learn the basic principles first.  Practice without principles leads to deeply embedded bad habits, whereas practice of principles leads to excellence.  By the way, it's got to be on water because grass just doesn't provide the right type or level of drag.

Because a fly line is not rigid it behaves in ways that don't always make sense to us (I'll spare you the maths).  The Snap T or Circle Spey cast is a case in point.  When we accelerate the top of the rod downstream, downwards and inwards to the bank, why does the tip of the line fly upstream in precisely the opposite direction?  Why can you cast a lot of line off the water with a Double Spey, when even half that amount will kill a Single Spey stone dead?  If getting the line up and moving back can be such a heave in a Single Spey, why does it lift so easily with a Snake Roll?  With your rod and line combination, what is the critical amount of line you need behind you for a Roll cast to go airborne?

So once you've found your secluded spot, explore and experiment to gain understanding of how and why the line behaves in response to different movements of the rod.  Without the pressure of fishing or spectators you can break your cast down into sections, stop, look and start again.  Above all, you can confirm and embed the basics: you won't be a good Spey caster until you've understood the dynamics and mastered the Roll and the Jump Roll.  And whatever else you may try, don't step into the river with people watching and attempt a Snake Roll unless you've perfected it in lonely isolation.

Fishing

Having got in a bother with the casting we tend to transfer the same excess of force and energy to the fishing.  We speed everything up.  We're so keen to cast again that we strip in too quickly.  We're so busy being busy and cursing ourselves that we don't look at the water and and adjust our angles, actions and tactics.  How many fish do we unknowingly miss as a result?  And worst of all, we commit another sin, forgetting about the fly, which is the subject of next week's sinful post.






Sunday, 13 December 2015

Correct speed of fly presentation.

I found   interesting   debate on the salmonfishingforum and I want to  share it with  you.

 http://www.salmonfishingforum.com/forums/thread123031-2.html


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Vasil Bykau


AMcD 
What is the correct speed?

Is there a correct speed when swinging flies for salmon?


This I am sure has been discussed a great deal on here, but with the "Depth" thread live, I just wanted to ask if the speed varies for time of year/conditions or should it be varied at all times?

In the spring, I am always trying to slow down a fly - makes sense in big cold water. However, on the Tweed a couple of weeks ago, we were trying to fish slow as well. It was biggish, perfect height i'd say, but not cold. Yet all the fish landed were caught stripping. A few fish were lost mid swing having taken yards of line (I have another theory on this fish). When I used to fish the Dee in September/October, most fish were caught stripping flies at all depths, the faster the better.

So is there a "correct" speed for a given situation, or should I be trying all speeds as I fish down a pool - which is what i try to do. Maybe I'm wasting my time?

 

I believe that if the depth is correct to present the fly in the taking window for given conditions and the fly size is correct for water clarity then there is no such thing as too fast provided the fly remains in the taking window for temperature and clarity. 

I use the example of all the fish taken on rapalas and spoons with their exaggerated actions. 
We're trying to illicit an aggression response not a feeding one so I believe movement is key.

Generally i like to fish big/long winged flies at speed(stripping or casting square and maybe even mending line in a down stream belly) and smaller flies a little slower,and when thats not working and i know theres fish in i will mix it all up till i find an answer or go home having tried it all 

I'm convinced you loose far more opportunities for salmon fishing too slow rather than too fast. I don't really do cold water stuff much so I'll leave that to those that do, but from late spring to late autumn, keep your flies moving at a fair lick. Salmon are predators and you don't want to give them too long to see what your using.

Mix it up big stylee! 


Indeed. He probably knows a thing of two about the game!

I wonder how he'd have got on fishing the Tweed or Nith this back end!!!!


IMHO depends on the lie, some respond to hanging a fly there and the salmon slams it after what seems an eternity, others seem to fish best to a big belly and a strip...That is the value of getting to know a bit of water well


Also I seem to find that the Findhorn and Spey like a faster fly than the Wye for example.


I'm not sure he would be easily persuaded to try.


Cold water fishing is definately a different job, and I have to say not my thing. I'm pretty sure slow not fast is going to be the go. I think around 11c is the point where they will take big falls, and that indicates it is the lowest temp for a "high speed" approach. I'm not sure how steep the downward curve is but I'd guess below 4 there not moving much. So I'd say 4 and below, as slow as you can, while you gently freeze, then speed up all the way to 11.
AMcD 

Thanks for all the responses. I agree with all of them! Slow when cold, fast when warmer and with big flies, and vary it... I like fishing long winged Scandi style flies - I really think these fish best fast. 


A note from experience - I do seem to catch more sea trout than any of my pals while fishing for salmon, stripping big flies. But I think i fish a fly faster than they do.


I think a great deal depends on the condition of the fish. I find that the fresh fish will likely take the fly fast, slow, across, down, whatever. If you have what are largely stale fish or at least reluctant takers, a fast cross current strip will often get one to take, and I've found that even in cool back-end conditions. 

In the summer when it gets really warm on the Miramichi very slow swings are more likely to be taken, dead-drifted dry flies even more so.
1.     
2.   

I'll be very honest here,what ever most Salmon flies represent to our quarry I have no true idea(I can guess sometimes),but one thing is quite obvious,whatever the water temp and current speed the size of the fly one uses has to be capable of moving at the speed one is presenting it at.

If I may illustrate,early Spring,lots of cold extra water,say a size 8 dressed flee in use,cast at the obligatory 45 deg. and left to fish in all honesty will be moving far too fast for most of the swing,it may well be that its not until its right into the slow water right in the edge that the flee looks natural.
A 1 1/2" tube cast slightly squarer and again left,will look un natural for the early part of the swing,then look spot on for the greater part of the swing, before looking un natural again when it gets into the edge.
A gurt big collie/monkey flee cast square will look ok almost straight off but all the while begin to loose its natural appeal the more it swings into ever slacker water.All the above is of course without any outside interference in the form of wading, mending or retrieve!.
So if we begin to think about the size of the flee,the angle of cast to slow or speed its path(wading bit comes in there),mending to slow it or retrieving to speed it we can increase a flee's effectiveness for a greater part of the swing!.
Of course,this is all a moot point as there's always things like depth to ruin everything,Salmon being Salmon and closely related to women will and often do completely unpredictable and very daft things!,then the worst of the lot is that you can't catch what isn't there!.
I tend to look at the area of the river I expect fish to be in and work out how my flee will arrive there and roughly what speed it will need to be swimming at to look attractive to our quarry,then I'll pick a size of flee I think appropriate and give it a good go!.
The Francis Grant book Salmon Fishing Dynamics explains it very well,but it will take some reading and practical experience to digest-its probably the best way to start,much better than my feeble attempts.
So if I assume a 1 1/2"tube in the early season will look ok for the greater part of my swing when utilised with wading,mending,angle of cast etc,then I'll give it a go.If I see fish or suspect they're there and get no joy,I could fish a bigger flee squarer so it comes through faster and retrieve ever faster towards the dangle,or fish the same big flee slower and deeper by a longer shallower downstream cast and wade deeper(if poss.)and hover the flee over the fish more.I could also fish the small size 8 flee at the 45 deg. angle and allow it to be swept over and downstream of the fish as though its being carried away by the current,until it eventually gets to the steadier water where it will look natural as its able to hold station or even swim against the current almost right in the edge.
As the water warms more throughout the year,the Salmons metabolism rises as does that of its prey,where you would have used a 1 1/2"tube you are now on the size 8 as it appears natural!,the bigger collie /monkey now looks un natural even cast square unless we impart a very very fast retrieve,we may even consider going smaller and fishing a tiny size 14 in the lowest summer flows and allowing it to hover in the creases and edges of the streams as it will look natural.
If you're sat there beaten,have a think and you can now play with the size of the flee and how you fish it going either side of the norm,either smaller or larger!,slower or faster
If fish are your side of the river you may well be able to present a flee nice n careful n slow in the small sizes,or go medium and add a retrieve,if they're on the far side,you could go medium sized,throw in a mend,allow the flee to fish and retrieve towards centre/your side,or fish larger/longer -cast squarer so it comes round faster and retrieve,but that presentation may well be sacrificial to your side as it will look totally out of order.
None of this drivel takes into account the depth you fish your flee-thats for another thread and my fingers are bleeding!- but maybe its a start,its how I look at things from the off.Its not an exact science,but an approach most use to start off their day,of course unless the Ghillies is there with a smile on his face saying its a dead cert if you do such n such!.The hardest step is the first choice of size-or reference-once you get a grip of that the understanding does follow!.Good luck and happy flee swinging!,

Pedro.


In my opinion the most important thing (obviously assuming there are actually salmon in the water you are fishing) is knowing your water. The better you know it the more rabbits you can pull from your hat. Cast well and get that fly PRECISELY placed and fully turned over and you are already ahead. 


Tons one can do to influence a fish with fly speed and depth. Some fish in some pools are more forgiving. Some are less. And in 15 minutes a new fish (or a stale one whose switch just flipped) may be there which is suicidal. 

YMMV....

Salmon season can't get here fast enough this coming year, dealing with SERIOUS withdrawals already. Going to be a long winter in these parts


There's so many variables in a river like flow speed, depth, rocks etc that is hard to give a definitive answer in mph. I find the most important thing is to keep in touch with the fly from the second it hits the water and give it life.

I always have the line in my hand throughout the swing feeling for information about what's happening at the point.
My retrieve speed can vary from zero to quite fast depending how I feel the fly is behaving at different points during the swing and I find a downstream mend will catch more fish than an upstream one.

So to try and put an answer in a nutshell, Give it Life

salmon fishing, Red Francis, pesca del salmon in Russia, peche au saumon Russie, PĂȘche au saumon atlantique, 


Tuesday, 21 October 2014

An overview of the fall season of salmon fishing on the coast of the White Sea in the Kola Peninsula.


Autumn season for salmon fishing in Russia.


Mid-September is always represents an interesting time. It is characterized by increased activity of resident prespawning salmon and the appearance of silver salmon in the river from the sea. Catching resident fish at this time is not very difficult. One can only note that its possible to land  salmons of especially large sizes. Probably, this can be explained by the fact that most of the season, these large salmon were passive and did not come across on the hook. I think that the real size  of the salmon  population   can be seen in the autumn during the spawning period, the period of increased activity of resident fish.
The massive appearance  of silver sea salmons in the river Chavanga usually begins in mid-September. But usually it depends on the state of water in the river, its level and temperature. On a rainy year appearance of fresh salmon does not stop for the entire season. So it was in 2012, when after a heavy rainfall   salmon runs in the river was observed from  mid-August. After a dry summer, when the water level in the river is low,   salmon run begins gradually intensifying after the rains and with decreasing of temperature of the river water. To anticipate the maximum   of sea salmon run in the river - too many factors must be taken into account. Therefore, based on the statistics of previous years, we can only assume the most successful weeks for  silver salmon fishing. In the autumn   this period takes 4 weeks - it lasts from mid-September to mid-October, when the season ends. Actual motion of salmon continues in late autumn and most  intencive  salmon run   into the river can be observed in November. 
Therefore, the last 2 weeks of September and 2 weeks of October are valid for prime time of  salmon fishing on the coast of the White Sea of the Kola Peninsula.